José Ignacio — DAVID YARBOROUGH

The most surprising and memorable place we visited on our trip to Argentina was not in Argentina. It was in Uruguay. Punta del Estes has long been a favorite escape for affluent Porteños and other Argentines and Brazilians. The changes there since I last visited more than 30 years ago were shocking. What was once a funky little beach town is now an over-developed high-rise city by the sea. Think a smaller version of Miami with even less English spoken.

The uber-wealthy have since decamped from Punta del Este and adopted a tiny former fishing village known as José Ignacio as their private playground. The small peninsula is surrounded by beaches punctuated by a quaint lighthouse. Think the Hamptons or Nantucket but, believe it or not, with better restaurants. The main part of José Ignacio is a mere six blocks by six blocks. Within that space exist perhaps a dozen impressive spots to eat and/or drink. One of them, the famous Parador La Huella, with its stunning open-air setting directly on the beach, is ranked among the best in the world. Sitting next to bonfires burning along the dunes, we stuck with seafood—from wonderful sushi to grilled locally-caught fish. Within a kilometer there are another half dozen truly excellent places.

As if all this was not enough to make this a foodie hotspot, less than an hour away, in the village of Garzón, you will find the Uruguayan outpost of celebrity Patagonia chef Frances Mallmann, master of the fire pit. In addition to his eponymous establishment in the village, his unique style of cooking can also be experienced at the largest winery in the country, also called Garzón. Try their pinot noir rosé or the tannat reserve, a variety you may not have heard of but are likely to enjoy. We were consistently impressed with each of the Garzón wines that we tried. Ditto their olive oils.

Of course, a beach town such as José Ignacio has beaches. The ones around the bohemian village are very popular but the beaches extend beyond the village for miles and miles—all the way to Brazil, which can be reached by driving a few hours on a surprisingly well-maintained dirt and gravel road. One need only drive a few minutes of this route, however, to discover what the locals call "no people” beaches. Lots and lots of privacy, that may at some point be interrupted by horseback riders galloping by, but that only adds a bit of excitement.

We were in José Ignacio during high season, which runs from mid-December until March. Sadly, this is virtually its whole season as many of its shops and restaurants are closed otherwise. Don’t plan on visiting here for Christmas or New Year’s unless perhaps you’ve recently won the Powerball lottery. During our stay, we were delighted to find prices only slightly more than those in Argentina and that the bare-footed billionaires we shared this bit of paradise with were unpretentious and welcoming, not off-putting in the least.

**Our (otherwise) deserted beach, with Jose Ignacio in the distance**

The most recommended places to stay for short-term visitors are the three VIK Retreats. Estancia VIK is a 4000-acre ranch set in beautiful rolling countryside about a mile inland from José Ignacio itself. It’s the place to be if polo’s your thing. Playa VIK and Bahia VIK are located side-by-side directly on the sea just west of José Ignacio. People we met during our stay had very kind things to say about the restaurant there, La Susana. Alas, there were no rooms available at either of the beach-front properties at the time we were there, and the beach was what we had come to José Ignacio for.

Our decision to stay in a small boutique hotel a few minutes outside of the village proved a smart one. La Viudawas comfortable and quiet. The partners who own it were ever-present, ready to help with advice and making reservations. The room, the pool, the breakfast—all exceeded expectations. Everything we needed, from beach chairs and umbrellas to towels and buckets of ice were always at hand. The beach was only a short walk away and was nearly deserted each day.

One night we had an excellent, mega-romantic dinner at Marismo, seated with our feet in the sand at a candlelit table. Two other spots we found endearing were La Excusa in the village and Jauna, hidden behind a residential neighborhood just a minute down the road. Special recognition should be noted for a spot we loved and frequented, Solera. This open-air wine bar and café is run by its co-owner and sommelier, Soledad, a delightful host whose recommendations for both wine and food were always spot-on. Everyone who is lucky enough to make his way to Jose Ignacio must experience this laid-back establishment. You can’t miss it: two shipping containers connected by a deck, located just off the (only) round-about and just behind the (only) service station. You’ll thank me and love Solé and Fernando and their charming creation.

Adding a stop in Uruguay to an Argentine itinerary is easy. There are high-speed ferries from BA to the capital Montevideo which worth a brief stop in itself. Driving there is not the least bit intimidating. Punta del Este is a picturesque two-hour drive along the coast. There are also frequent flights (less than an hour) from BA’s close-in domestic airport, Aeroparque (AEP), to either Montevideo or to Punta del Este. Jose Ignacio is another 45 minutes or so beyond Punta del Este.